Consumption. The coffee shop craze: "The battle of the hot drink has begun"

Chai, matcha , latte macchiato, mocha, cappuccino… The French, accustomed to an espresso at the end of a meal, have been discovering new gourmet drinks in recent years. And "they love it," according to Bernard Boutboul, president of the consulting firm Gira. According to the Coffee Collective, which represents the industry, a new coffee shop opens every week in France. There are now more than 3,500 of them, representing an annual turnover of €321 million (*).

About twenty years ago, the American Starbucks and the French Colombus Café & Co came to compete with "Brioches Dorées, Mie Câline, Paul and others, once presented as the coffee of the third millennium," recalls Bernard Boutboul. Since then, the market has continued to expand, whether "in channels, users, or product types," adds Nicolas Nouchi, founder of the Stratég'eat firm.

"The battle of the hot drink has begun," noted the specialist at the latest Snack Show , the trade show dedicated to fast food. In addition to the large specialist chains, deployed in high-traffic areas, there has been the addition of fast food (with McDonald's and its McCafé, for example), as well as a host of independents. With barista diplomas in hand, these latter are setting up "more in the city centers" of large cities, notes Bernard Boutboul.

But this trend is also observed in less densely populated areas, where a "coffee shopification" of bakeries and pastries is taking place, in the words of Nicolas Nouchi. "Roundabout bakeries, like Ange and Marie Blachère, have evolved towards snacking and are now moving towards coffee shops," translates Bernard Boutboul.

Why such a craze for these establishments, "three times more expensive than the local bar," according to Gira's own president? "What you're paying for is the expertise of a coffee specialist, but also the gourmet and Instagrammable aspect," he replies. With a strong presence on social media, coffee shops pay attention to their image and decor. This is a way to capture "Generation Z" (people born between 1997 and 2010), who often prefer cappuccino to espresso (**).

Above all, coffee shops "have a quality that restaurants don't: they have an evolving product range and are open all day," insists the expert. From breakfast to afternoon tea, coffee shops offer a wide variety of drinks, as well as sweet accompaniments. "Twenty years ago, we wondered how food could complement a hot drink. Now it's the other way around," says Nicolas Nouchi.

French pastries and viennoiseries are no longer the only treats associated with coffee breaks. The croissant remains the French's favorite sweet snack , but it is as popular as the cookie among the younger generation (**). Donuts, muffins, brookies , cheesecakes, rolls... American specialties have found their place in the consumption habits of Gen Z.

(*) Source Collectif café.

(**) Speak Snacking 2025 Study